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Sunday, April 5, 2020

Meeting the "San"


                               This Vulture seems to ask.
"What, in Hades, is this round thing below me?" 




As this Vulture atop the barren tree seemed to be observing the sinking Sun,
so did we, having arrived at our 'Sunday Pan Camp Site” prepare for 'tomorrow'
in our “Sunset-painted” mosy-tents.

A very special adventure was awaiting us.

Meeting 'The San'


The 'San', a nomadic people, have lived in this area an estimated 20,000 years.
(give or take a year or two)


Since they have no concept of land ownership, it was easy for the Dutch and the British to claim the land as their own, since there were no counter claims.
In fact, through Amy as the interpreter, the senior of this family said:

You cannot own the sun. You cannot own the rain. So how can you own the land?”

Some of the 'Bushmen' have moved into small Communities, giving up their nomadic Way of Life. They are now raising cattle and farming the land. I do not know how successful they are in this new way.
Others live very much like the family we saw. I do not know if, after having met us, danced for us, and demonstrated how do make fire with two stones, they are not going home to put on Blue Jeans and a T shirt.
They dug up tubers and roots, shaved them to a pulp and squeezed them to drink the liquid. They performed a 'circle dance' with dried rattling fruit tied to their ankles.
The music to this dance was a steady single tone hum.
Amy assured me that these were pictures of their lives of today.
Well, I will have to believe her.
Through Amy, I asked the Elder which name they prefer: 'San' or 'Bushmen'
He had a broad smile when Amy translated:
It does not matter! San, Bushman, .. it all depends on your tone of voice.”
It is also interesting to know that 'San' means 'Man' and that the 'San' are the oldest known culture of Southern Africa.


The San have always been and some still are 'hunter-gatherers.'
To this day they hunt with small bows and arrows, poisoned with a home made brew from herbs they find in their immediate surroundings.
They still find tubers and roots, vegetables, fruits, and nourishing nuts.
Although they are small of stature and lean, they seem to be a healthy group.
And they find truffles in such amounts and quality, that you would have to pay a fortune in any Paris or London Eatery.





We met this young couple first.
They were looking for, and finding,  Truffels.






The young man unearthed a tuber, 
which was sliced in tiny slivers, from which they extracted water.







The Chief of this family used two stones, 
with which he produced a spark and, 
first lighting dried moss, he got a nice fire going.





With a sly grin he admitted that 
“It is easier with matches or a good lighter.”


Truffles, anyone? Cost almost nothing. Dig them out of the ground



Preparation for a dance.




The dance consisted of circular rhythmic stomping by the men
and humming and clapping of hands by the ladies.



The Chieftain of the family.









Meeting the San, made the whole trip worthwhile” said John 
and I could only agree wholeheartedly.













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