The Wall of Elephants

Chilojo Cliffs, Gonarezhou National Park, Zimbabwe.

It was early in the morning. The sun had just decided to throw its first bundle of rays onto the cliffs of Chilojo, bathing them into almost a cacophony of reds and golds. A lone Elephant, Ant called him “one of the biggest tuskers of Gonarezhou,” slowly, in fact, very slowly made his way across the sandy shores to the river Runde evidently for an invigorating morning drink.

Breakfast was consumed hastily because this day's Safari would lead us quite a distance from our campsite. We loaded lunch, water and, most important, my camera gear onto Ant's “Green Monster” and we were off!

The multitude of animals we encountered were almost beyond listing. From a lone bull Ele to entire families of Impala, lead by a mighty buck, his horns in a wide arch, proud, it seemed to me.

A family of Warthogs, who, I understand, do not like to be called “pigs” were rooting under the top soil for truffles, I assume.

A show-off Nyala, with wife and two daughters, two Bat-Eared Foxes, listening to a bug crawling under ground, four Cheetahs, eyeing us suspiciously and then disappearing into the brush.

Finally there was this Elephant cow.

Ant stopped and for a while we stared at each other. The Ele and we.

We stepped off our cruiser. The Ele watched us carefully. Then she trumpeted a challenge, waved her ears like the sail of a dhow and threw some sand into the air.

We stood our ground.

She turned and uttered a sonorous call toward the bushes, some 30 to 50 meters distant.

On this command, Eles appeared from behind bushes and trees, at least 20 in number. In almost military precision they formed a wall.

Several babies, well out of harm's way, in the back of the grown-ups.

They blasted, threw sand and generally behaved in a less than hospitable manner.

Ant once more confirmed his reputation as the “Elephant Whisperer” He, believe me, this is in no way hyperbole, he talked to the herd of Eles. In a low sound, coming from the depth of his chest, sounding very much like the sound of an Elephant, he seemed to assuage their anger.

Some of the younger ones, almost babies, pushed to the front row. One could almost hear them ask: “Hey what's happenin'”

and then they all moved behind the bushes from whence they had come.

This confrontation lasted for the better part of an hour.

I think they probably were afraid of the sound of my heart beating in double time.

This was a moment of time in Gonarezhou.

This was an adventure, one of many with Ant Kaschula

Bertspix.